The evening at Restaurant Bühlmann begins with snacks in the atmospheric wine cellar of the old manor. Here, we are surrounded by great bottles of wine and homemade charcuterie that air dries. The first snack is beautifully presented with the contrasts of a crispy pickled shell of kohlrabi, which encompasses a sweet and creamy lobster tatar. The flavours are nicely put together in a crispy brioche bun spread with sweet onion marmalade, topped with Havgus cheese and a piece of lardo, which is air dried in the cellar.
The restaurant in Hotel Scheelsminde is grandiosely decorated in one of the old rooms covered in dark wood and heavy table cloths. We are far from the Nordic less-is-more style and it suits the place and the French-inspired kitchen style perfectly. The first dish of the menu is sugar-seared scallop, which with its mild taste of the sea and a texture is complimented by the fresh sourish taste of green strawberries and a split sauce made on gooseberry and dill.
The flavours are yet again well-adjusted and a young Chardonnay from South Tyrol harmonises the aromatic complexity of the dish with the flavours of exotic fruit.
The wine menu has been conducted with careful considerations in order to make in comply with the menu. The service has a great level of energy, is professional and has an eye for the details.
In the side dish with onion is the strong onion broth adjusted by pickled onions, and a poached egg yolk adds the fatness to the dish. Refined nuances and combinations, which unfortunately is disrupted by a slightly undercooked onion shell, which adds a strong and bitter taste of raw onion to the dish.
It is only smaller details, which can be fixed easily, and Bühlmann has with its focus on local ingredients, classical tastiness and great service become one of the top-restaurants in Aalborg.